[Evil]#1_in_the_world
Старожил
В м-ке то цилиндр меньше чем у мосберга, но пульку проталкивает нормально. Так что за ствол был у Элвиса?
650 ру и Китайская механа ака калаш, с двумя обоймами- твоя...Мне она нах не нужна.Fandango":1qm75mdk сказал(а):ребят, где купить приличную пушку, а то пошатался по рынку - сакс один
[Evil сказал(а):#1_in_the_world":v1aapkz3]Для тех кто хочет и по воскресениям играть - просто примажьтесь к какой-нибудь команде чтобы с ними можно было ездить, как я по комуфляжу выбрал Воронов и подмазался к ним. Теперь по воскресениям и иногда по субботам буду к ним ездить.
V. Getting the Mess Back Together Well, you know what the stuff in your mechbox does, and it may even be newly upgraded. However, a mechbox with a stiffer spring won't function if it's laying in pieces on the ground. So, here's how to close up the mechbox without breaking anything in the process. Now, it’s time to start re-installing parts to where they should go. First and foremost, place the anti-reversal latch where it resides, in the small hole to the left of the bevel gear bushing. Then place the spur gear in place, and get the bevel gear notched into its bushing. Pull the anti-reversal latch so that it engages the bottom side of the bevel gear. If it is on the other side, it will literally stop your mechbox cold and possibly strip a tooth or two. Before you get the cylinder unit in, test the compression that it holds with the piston head’s o-ring. Place the nozzle on the cylinder head and plug it up with your finger. Now take the piston and try to shove it down the cylinder. If the compression is perfect, the piston head should be almost impossible to move down the cylinder. If there is a small leak somewhere in the system, localize its source and deal with it accordingly. Usually, problems with compression are because the o-ring is not engaging the cylinder wall, so check to make sure it isn’t flooded with grease or too small. When you get the compression working nicely, move onto re-installing all the parts. When all the gears are in place, put the entire cylinder unit and all its subsidiaries in the mechbox. Make sure the small holes in the cylinder head fit into the small metal nubs on the inside of the mechbox, and that the tappet plate goes in the small space where the cylinder head isn’t. Then take the small tappet plate spring, hook it onto the tappet plate’s “hook”, and re-engage it onto the small nub where it once resided. Now take a look at the tappet plate’s arm; it should be on the other side of the sector gear, and the small nub on the inside of the sector gear should be in position to engage the arm on the tappet plate. Now, you can take the bushings that go onto the top sides of the gear axles and install them onto the gear axles. Again, take note that the tappet plate is engaging that nub and is under the sector gear bushing. Retrieve the piston with head and the spring installed in it, and position the piston inside the cylinder. Again, an extra set of hands will be helpful, since this part is also rather tense. When the piston is all the way in the mechbox, check all the other parts first to make sure nothing will make you take it all apart again. Check the following things: Anti-reversal latch: Is it engaging the bevel gear and in its slot as dictated? Tappet plate: Is the spring installed, is the nozzle fitted into the plate’s slot? Is the plate's "arm" under the sector gear bushing, engaging the nub on the gear? Cylinder: Is the hole in the cylinder in the correct place? Cylinder head: Are the holes lined up with the nubs on the mechbox wall? Trigger Assembly: Does the trigger assembly work? Does the safety engage? Do the contacts on the trigger and the “wiring box” engage? Piston: Is it in so the teeth are facing down? Are the guide rails in the correct place? Spring Guide: If there are tabs on your spring guide, is one pointing straight up out of the mechbox? If you are sure that all of these things are done and accounted for, you can then jam the spring and spring guide in the mechbox, and place the spring guide in its little notch in the back of the mechbox. Now, take the other mechbox half and place it on top of all of it, fitting the cylinder into its hole, and getting the spring guide to stay put. Don’t worry about the gears and bushings in their holes just yet. If everything on the top half is secure, i.e. the cylinder is in the correct spot, the cylinder head is fitted into the shell, and the two shell halves are closed tight, you can screw in a couple screws in various positions along the mechbox. Now looking at the outside, find the bushings and get them into place. You can tap the mechbox wall with a blunt, plastic object to kind of oodle them into place, and then push down the mechbox as the bushings fall into their respective holes. To get the anti-reversal latch, stick in a very thin screwdriver through the crack in the mechbox wall and position the anti reversal latch. When you are certain everything is in place, try to get the two halves of the mechbox together. You might hear a slight click noise, but that’s just everything falling into place. When you are certain everything has fit together, screw in all the screws around the mechbox according to your screw map, and do a couple things to make sure things are functioning properly: Air Nozzle: Push in on it. Does it go in and then spring back out of the mechbox? It should. Trigger: Does it do what it’s supposed to do? Selector Plate and Safety Lever: Push the selector plate all the way so it engages the safety lever. Is the trigger blocked? Does the selector plate’s spring perform its function? If everything is fine, then re-install just the motor, whether it is by a motor cage, or a pistol grip. When all the wires are connected, try to fire the gun. Does the air nozzle cycle in and out of the mechbox? When firing full-auto, does the piston sometimes lock back after a decent burst? If it does both these things, fire once on semi (get a feel for where the selector plate should go for this function) to reset the spring and gears, and reinstall the whole deal back into your gun. If something is wrong, go back into your gun and find the problem. Usually, gear lockup is a pretty obvious thing to diagnose. But if your shimming job was correct, check for stripped teeth on any of the gears, including the pinion gear on the motor. The problem has sometimes been attributed to a badly adjusted motor because of the new shimming, but this is not usually the case. Also check to see if your battery is fully charged (you have no idea how many people have had to break everything open, only to find out their battery wasn’t charged), and try again. You should be able to get everything cycling smoothly after (at most) two or three tries. If you just can't get the gun to shoot properly, don't fire it excessively to see if it "breaks in", because the gearbox will do just that, break. Be sure to chronograph your newly upgraded gun, to make sure everything is performing nicely. Congratulations! You have upgraded your gun! VI. Maintenance and Closing So you’ve successfully upgraded your gun, you’ve learned how your mechbox works, among other things, but it’s not over yet. In order to make sure you get the most out of your gun, you’ll need to do a few things every once in a while to make sure it runs smoothly ‘til high heaven come runnin’.